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Topic: RyanB's Caddy (Read 8893 times) previous topic - next topic

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RyanB's Caddy
Yup!  I finally took the plunge and I am an owner of a water cooled VW for the 1st time in my life... haha.

I purchased a VW Rabbit Caddy for $1500. It is a diesel!  Pretty stoked.  It needs work of course and hoping some of you water cooled guys can help me out.

It was out in Spokane...  6.5 hour drive each way to get it.  Started at 5:3am Sat and got back 9:30pm Sat.  Boy was I tired.

I spent all day Sunday cleaning it up from the mouse nest in the headliner, and other just general cleanup for a car that sat for 10 years.

RyanB
 
66 Baja

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Re: RyanB's Caddy
Reply #1
Things I need to look into:

1) Steering.  The truck will barely steer left. But it will make one hell of a right turn. It's rack and pinion. Besides something in the way of the arms, what should I be looking for here?

2) The heater fan doesn't work.  Where is it under the dash? How difficult is it to get that dash apart?

3) When it rains, I get water dripping down from under the dash. I cant see the windshield leaking. Where else would water be leaking in from? This is on both sides, drivers and passenger.

Thanks!
RyanB
 
66 Baja

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Re: RyanB's Caddy
Reply #2
I'm not sure on the steering issue.

Mk1 cars are notorious for having wire gremlins from sitting for so long. The issue could be switch, connections, or the fan motor itself. I beleive the motors on those are up in the left side of the dash, or buried right in the center. I believe you are looking at having to pull the dash to get to it. I would recommend while you are in there that far to go ahead and replace the heater core while you are at it. I hear pulling the dash to do a heater core is a full weekend job. I have not had to do one myself yet. My buddy who worked on them regularly said he could maybe do it in one day.

As far as the water leak. You windshield can and will leak water while not looking like it is. Another good possibility is under under the hood in the  wiper tray area there is the intake for the blower fan. Sometimes the intake can get cracks in the sealant around the base and leak into the dash.  Or the tray drain plug gets clogged and water backs up and dumps down into the blower fan intake.

Glad you could come to the dark side with me Ryan! :force: Not sure if you are up to date, but I have a diesel Mk2 now. LOVE IT!
Schneller Dummkopf! Aus meinen Weg!

Current Vw(s)
'13 Jetta TDI (Lucifer)

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Re: RyanB's Caddy
Reply #3
Haha! Hey Josh! Yes, I have joined the dark...err water cooled side!

Thanks for the post. So far, everything electrical is working with the exception of the heater blower. I suspect that I am going to find more mouse nests inside the dash. I just need to figure out how to get it all apart I guess.  Need to find a PDF Service Manual for this I suppose.  Maybe DIP has a good one for sale.

Here are some pics of the truck from the ad from CL.  It was raining so hard yesterday that I wasnt in any mood to take more pics while I was cleaning it up. heh.


RyanB
 
66 Baja

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Re: RyanB's Caddy
Reply #4
You know I might have the bentley for that kicking around somewhere. I could be wrong. Let me do some digging over the next few days. It will cost a purdy penny to buy one, but they are worth it. You can have mine if I still have it.

http://www.amazon.com/Volkswagen-Rabbit-Scirocco-Service-1980-1984/dp/0837601835/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1380572810&sr=8-1&keywords=Volkswagen+Rabbit%2FScirocco%2FJetta+Service+Manual%2C+1980-1984%3A+Including+Pickup+Truck%2C+Convertible%2C+and+GTI



EDIT: No go on manual. I must have already parted with it when I got rid of the GLI.
  • Last Edit: September 30, 2013, 05:04:16 PM by jbjetta
Schneller Dummkopf! Aus meinen Weg!

Current Vw(s)
'13 Jetta TDI (Lucifer)

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Re: RyanB's Caddy
Reply #5
No worries my friend.  Thanks for looking!

I got home today and start taking the dash apart. I got a bunch of misc items off.  Enough to take the lead off the switch for the fan.  Verified I am getting 12v.  However other leads do not ohm out to ground.  Took some time looking around and started cleaning out the cavity above the dash under the hood. It was piled up with needles.  Low and behold I found where the blower motor is.  What a crappy location.  It's a PITA to get out of there (I had to remove the wiper assembly to do it) and it's exposed to the elements.  It was locked up solid. Once I got it out it looks as though something electrical failed and burned up inside it.

Not a whole lot to take pics of so I didn't snap any.  I should get a few more though soon.
RyanB
 
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Re: RyanB's Caddy
Reply #6
Put the car up on stands last night to crawl under it.  I cant see anything binding as far as the steering goes.  There is a solid clunk when you get to either side coming from the R&P. From eyeballing it, it does look like the wheels turn more to the left than to the right.  I may just have to have it professionally looked at.
RyanB
 
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Re: RyanB's Caddy
Reply #7
So, I've been working on the truck quite a bit the past few weeks. I managed to drag home the donor Cabriolet from Mark and am in the process of pulling the dash and everything out.

This past weekend was the RCV VW pumpkin cruise . I wanted to take the truck but one E-brake cable was snapped. I figured I could pull the one out of the cabriolet. Apparently not... I went to switch them out and it was shorter. dang! I also found that the rear brakes are smaller from the cabriolet. I rushed out to DIP. I get new brake shoes and an ebrake cable and wheel seals. Get back to my place and start rebuilding brakes. My wheel cyl broke off the bleed valve inside so I switched out the cyl from the cabby. Got everything back together and no brakes in the back. Found out the dang wheel cyl from the cabby were locked up. I cant win here! out to the local regular auto parts store and they have wheel cyl. Got everything back together and brakes work great now.

Spent this past Sunday driving for hours in the truck. Made it to the cruise. Had a good time. Truck is running well. Driving seems ok, almost a bit squirrely. Hard to describe. I am thinking I may need shocks.

I was able to pull the blow motor out of the cabby. It had also sat for years and I had to douche it down allot with WD40 to get it spinning again. However it's working and installed in the truck. Yay heat and defrost!

I've driven it to work twice now (1 hour commute each way). I cant tell what kind of gas mileage I am getting. The speedo sorta works, it bounces around allot and the trip meter and mileage meter do not spin. I have some electrical demons to exorsize. Right rear blinker doesn't work and bulb is fine. High beam indicator doesn't work.

I do not yet know the condition of how well the instrument panel from the cabriolet works. considering the speedo really doesnt work from the truck, I'll have to use the one from the cabby. Has anyone ever used the rpm gauge in these one a diesel motor?
RyanB
 
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Re: RyanB's Caddy
Reply #8
The gasoline tachs work off the distributor I think. You don't have one in the diesel. There might be an adapter kit to run it off of the alternator though. I'm going to go by M&M one of these days soon and ask them about this stuff for my car and see if I can source any parts from them.
Schneller Dummkopf! Aus meinen Weg!

Current Vw(s)
'13 Jetta TDI (Lucifer)

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Re: RyanB's Caddy
Reply #9
So this past week I've been investigating how to swap the instrument cluster.  I have it about 90% done.  Currently, the night lights do not work and the oil light is confounding me. There is some odd PC board thing going on with two oil sensors. not just the typical single one so trying to figure that out.

I did however get the door panels finished and installed from the Cabriolet!  Requires some cutting down, opening new holes and whatnot.

RyanB
 
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Re: RyanB's Caddy
Reply #10
So, I've worked through all the issues with my instrument cluster. Everything is basically working. Only half of the oil warning system is working. I found I had a bad sensor so I put in a lower pressure sensor from a VW Type1 motor. It's not correct as I think it has a different pressure switch but, at least I'll have a warning now if I have absolutely no pressure.

I need to source the original equipment from Mark. lol

Next up is to get the RPM gauge working. I have to find the W Alternator for Diesels and then work out a way to change the signal for this Gas Tach.
RyanB
 
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Re: RyanB's Caddy
Reply #11
I think I can hook you up.   :2up:
Mark

1967 Convertible
1967 Ragtop (really)-SOLD IT!
1967 Standard Bus
1974 Thing
1977 Rabbit

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Re: RyanB's Caddy
Reply #12
So I was told on another site that the TDI isnt anywhere near a bold in and to look for an AAZ motor. I've been looking and an AAZ motor looks to be even more scarce than a TDI. So far it appears in 91-95 Audi, 91-99 Golf and 91-96 Passat. Plus a Vanagon but you need a different oil pan to convert that. Every car I've searched for at Pick and Pull and Craigslist has been a gas engine sadly. If it appears in other cars/years please let me know I would appreciate it.

Incidentally, does anyone know if the Mk1 soft top rabbits have the same windshield as a Standard? There are lots of convertibles in the junkyards with decent windshields.

Speaking is junkyards, went to pick and pull to look at a Passat with a TDI in it. well, boy was that cleaned out. That and it seems the favorite thing for people to attack in these VW's is the instrument gauge cluster. Not a single one still had one in it. The only thing I managed to walk away with was a partially damaged speedo cable I needed for the change to the Cabriolet cluster I put in. It appears to be of by 5mph at speeds over 45. Kinda odd.

I did manage to finally cut off the horrid rear bumper that was welded to the truck. What a PITA that was. I then found out both lights for the license plate were out. What is it with these cards and specialized bulbs? The bulbs out of the Diesel cluster were not replaceable in their little holder. You have to get them as a complete unit. well same with the little specialized light fixtures for the tail light. Being resourceful as I am, I pull those things out and managed to pry them apart. Got the old bulbs out and replaced with similar bulbs. Put back together with a small zip tie and screwed back into place. Working like a charm. I'll take a pic soon of it without that old bumper.

I also managed to do an oil change on it. Seems the oil filter I used was REALLY easy to cross thread it. when that would happen I would have to back the whole thing out and the center piece would come out with it. That was frustrating. Also replaced my alternator belt.

Planning on driving the truck on a 4 hour trip to Seattle area from Portland this Friday. There is a VW Car show thing going on my club is attending on Saturday.
RyanB
 
66 Baja

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Re: RyanB's Caddy
Reply #13
The 1.9l TDI from 93-98.5 should bolt right in pretty much. The later ones will require some fabrication, but they produce a LOT more power  :2up: The 93-98.5 should be pretty good on power though too.
Schneller Dummkopf! Aus meinen Weg!

Current Vw(s)
'13 Jetta TDI (Lucifer)

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Re: RyanB's Caddy
Reply #14
So at Dubs and Donuts I got Josh's old wheels from his Jetta.  Image below.

In the process of swapping the wheels out, I decided I wanted to track down the pesky oil leak that has been annoying me.  Well lo and behold I found I had a leaking hard line to injector 4. There must be a crazy small hole because I cant see it. Can only see the stream of fuel when the engine is running. Went ahead and swapped the lines out with some extra's I have.  Decided it was time to "super clean" the engine bay again to keep looking for that oil leak.  Dang I love this stuff!

Got the engine clean again and with it running I can see a small stream of oil coming down from behind the water pump. It trickles onto the oil pan and then dribbles along that till it drips.  So need to track down whats behind that, that will leak that much oil.

Lastly, it looks at though my injection pump is leaking. I can see a steady drip of fuel from underneath it somewhere as it runs down the engine block. Been doing some reading the past few hours and even after all these years it's mostly a mystery on how to reseal these things? Yeesh.  From the sound of it, a normal non performance pump is going to cost 700-800??  Hell for that I could double the price and get a complete running motor. It does sound that I may be able to just replace the one seal that is leaking whatever that is without doing the whole thing and needing calibration?



She gets some new wheels!


Tail gate, Rear lights from donor truck.  Removed the hideous bumper that was on there before.





OK... I am taking the plunge.  I actually have 4 injection pumps sitting in my garage. Using a drill to turn them and using ATF, I couldn't get any of them to Spray out of injectors. Sad Panda.  so,  since they don't work anyhow I say what can I lose by trying to rebuild one.  I purchased a "howto" video along with PDF or something from a guy on Ebay. Found him through Youtube.  I'll try to combine that with a few of the busted resources around the web to rebuild one pump.  I also have one of the tool kits to lock the cam and check the tolerance in the pump once everything is lined up.

Really is kind of a bummer. The engine is running phenomenal except for the oil leak and now the fuel leak. I am a firm believer in don't freakin touch it if it's running well.  but I don't know the condition of the belt currently in it, have to reseal the pump and find out where that oil leak is from behind the dang water pump.  Gonna be a long weekend of working on the truck soon.
RyanB
 
66 Baja

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