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Messages - sdebaker

General Chat / Bug Run -- House of Ghia party
Will there be a House of Ghia party Friday before Bug Run? If yes, where will it be located? I ask because I understand Mike is relocating the business.
General Chat / Dubs & donuts -- 3/19
Where is it , now?
Projects - VWs only / Re: Revs 71
"Got the body separated and the pan off.  Working on getting the new pans on now.  Worst thing I have found so far is a mammoth mouse nest throughout the entire tunnel.  I am thinking about going with Eastwoods inside-the-frame system to make sure I don't have rust issues down the road from whatever the mice were doing in there."

I'm doing a body-off-the-pan Karmann Ghia resto. I had the same concern about rust. I used Waxoyl https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waxoyl
I bought this kit from Bus Depot. Material and spray system. http://www.busdepot.com/j11333
Tech Help Cars / Re: New Engine, tuning help?

So, I picked a rebuilt motor up from this guy out in Estacada... I wasn't paying a lot of attention to the parts beyond I saw it was a 1641.  So basically stock motor.  It's for a 74 super beetle that is my Son's fiancĂ©e. One of the thing I wasn't thinking about until I got there and he mentioned it again was he put an Engle 110 cam in it. It showed some lope in the motor as he bench ran it. But it seems to be running ok...

Well, here I am, with a 009 dizzy on a 34 Pict3 carb and an Engle 110 cam.  Pulling my hair out trying to get this thing to run right. I don't expect it to not have a lope to it, but I don't want it dying at idle (if you can call it an idle). It also will barely start when hot, you have to slightly keep the chock on and runs in spurts (power spurts?) when going down the road.

Idea's / Suggestions?  I think I have a paid of Kadrons I can toss on it I suppose.  Or, can I get it running right with a Pict3?

I doubt it is the distributor unless the shaft bushing is so worn that the radial runout causes the point gap to change significantly as the shaft turns and flops around.

More-likely causes are a vacuum leak or a blocked primary jet in the carb.

Is the carb mounting tight and well sealed? Are the manifolds tight to the head and well sealed? Are the rubber boots on the manifold joints sound? One test is to spray these areas with carb cleaner. If the engine smooths out you found a problem.

Also make sure all the vacuum outlets on the carb are capped -- there are lots of them on a 34 PICT.

Are the valves properly adjusted?

Last two times (My Bus and FIAT 124 Spider) I had this problem it was dirt in the primary jet.
Projects - VWs only / Re: Revs 71

Windows, trim and door panes off

Some rust but not too bad

If I had this situation (and I often have had), I would wire brush (not very aggressively), clean, and paint with Hammerite smooth. http://www.thepaintstore.com/Hammerite_Rust_Cap_Smooth_Enamel_Finish_Quart_p/442001.htm
Calendar of Events / Maryhill Concours -- VW's featured
The Maryhill Concours d'Elegance this year is featuring VW. Near Goldendale, WA, out the Columbia River Gorge. As I read it, admission to the event is free for spectators. Registering a car is $15. Here;s the scoop http://goldendalemotorsports.org/Concours_de_Maryhill.html
General Chat / Bug In time
When do the gates really open? What's a good time to be there to be near the front of the line?
General Chat / March Dubs&Donuts
Are we doing D&D this month? Already did it? Been traveling, not paying attention.
Buy/Sell/Trade / Wanted: good T1, early2, 3 thermostat
Want one that is tightly contracted.

PM me if you have.
General Chat / VW Bus sells for a groovy $235,000
A 1955 Volkswagen (VLKAF) bus was recently sold for $235,000 by a German auction company, the the highest price ever paid at auction for one the iconic minibuses.


Keep fixin' up them split-window buses. One could be your IRA.

Hi all,

I have an '88 vanagon that I've had some ongoing starting issues with.  I'm wondering if anyone out there would be interested in a trade of helping me figure out  what I think is an electrical issue in the starting system in exchange for massage, or perhaps other grunt labor.  I just ask that you really know what you are doing and have the tools needed to properly evaluate the starting system.

Here is the backstory:
Back in August, there was progressively slower starting over the course of 5 or 6 starts before it stopped starting altogether.  Led to a new starter install.  Got a handful of clean starts before slower starts followed by no starting again. Turned out new starter was bad, so replaced with higher-end Bosch starter, and also replaced battery and transmission ground cables and _____ at the same time.  Halsey supposedly ran a complete test of the electrical system at this time. 
No issues for about a month other than the occasional slow start.  After leaving lights on overnight and draining the battery, it took a jump with some complication.  At this time I disconnected auxiliary battery to simplify the system, plus due to some questions about whether auxiliary system was installed properly in the first place.   Worked fine for a few weeks with the occasional slow start.

Van sat for about a week, then went to start and battery was totally dead.  No lights or anything had been left on.  Got a jump and went straight to buy a brand new battery for peace of mind (old battery was from '08).  Started several times over a couple weeks.  Reinstalled auxiliary battery system.  Everything seemed to be fine.  Van sat for about 5 days.  Went to start and battery was totally dead.   No lights or anything had been left on.  Took a jump fine and went on a short trip but was very cautious about turning off without running for at least 15-20 minutes between stops.  Even with this precaution, the starts got progressively slower on the trip.

It is parked now and I'm hesitant to take it anywhere. 

Btw, the alternator has been given clean bill of health by three different places. 

One other common denominator with the two times the van sat for 5-7 days followed by dead batteries was that the van was started for just a minute to move it in the driveway.  Remember that the first time this happened was with the old battery, the second time with a brand new battery.

At the end of the day....

I'm tired of pouring new parts and money into it, and I do not even know what to do from here.  I do have training as a massage therapist though and I think it would be more efficient use of my time and more effective to work with someone who knows exactly what they are doing and has the electrical testing tools to do it.  Might that be you?

My goals are to at least diagnose if not resolve the slow start and threat of dead battery issues, and to confirm the auxiliary battery system was installed properly.  I am happy to offer equal time on the massage table--time that you can transfer to a friend or loved one as a gift.  Or, I am happy to help with another project you may have--I have a strong back and am reasonably competent with most household hand and power tools.

Thanks for reading,

This sounds like typical battery drain from a short in the wiring, a switch, a relay or component. Get the wiring diagram. Disconnect the battery "+" cable. Pull all the fuses. Connect a voltmeter between battery cable and battery "+" . Put fuses back one at a time. Other than always-on circuits for components like radio and clock, there should be no voltage reading with ignition off and all components off. When you find a current flow that shouldn't be there, check all elements of that circuit to find the fault.

For always-on circuits, you need an ammeter of adequate capacity -- probably 0-20 would be good enough -- to determine if  too much current is flowing. Clock, radio, and such things should only draw fractions of an amp, so anything higher would be sign of a problem.

It can be fiddly and time consuming.
Started to clean up my engine lid and found lots of rust under the polyester spray coat. Need the later lid that has open space under the vent openings and uses plastic rain tray (don't need the tray). Can live with mild, surface rust. Can't live with dents or rust along lower edge.

If you have one, or know where there is one, PM me.
Buy/Sell/Trade / Re: Seat-back- knobs
Looks like that would work for me. I need just from one seat. How much? Where are you located?

PM me.
Buy/Sell/Trade / Seat-back- knobs
I need the two, large, seat-back-adjuster knobs from a late-1960's to early-1970's Beetle. These are the ones at the bottom, rear sides of the seat, with the four flats to change the seat-back angle. Want ones in good shape; mine are decomposed through electrolsis.

Will consider junk seat if these parts are still very good.
General Chat / Autosport -- Vancouver -- Closing
Another parts source going away, unless someone else buys the business. Owner is retiring. Selling out inventory, tools, and fixtures.