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Topic: RyanB's Caddy (Read 10456 times) previous topic - next topic

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Re: RyanB's Caddy
Reply #30
Wow... Just when I thought I was through the trouble.. Driving home tonight and noticed a clicking sound. turned music down and sure enough it gets louder and faster with the engine. Got into town and with the street lights could see a ton of smoke coming out the exhaust.

Got home and popped the hood. It's not that deep knock from a rod. Sounds like a really loud valve lifter. At idle, you don't hear it and no smoke. As you rev the engine it gets loud and fast and a boat load of smoke out the exhaust.

<sigh> Some sort of a stuck valve? Idea's? All this recent work and now I may have to pull the head? uhg.
RyanB
 
66 Baja

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Re: RyanB's Caddy
Reply #31
Bummer man  :2down:

I wouldn't have any ideas unless I was able to listen to it for myself. Got a stethoscope handy to determine area sound is coming from accurately?

I haven't had any issues like that with any of my diesels. I've heard stories of loose precombustion chamber cups causing interesting issues. The lifters are solid in diesels.

Now that I'm thinking about it, I would check your valve lash for good measure. See if any are way off. They are easy to adjust with the right tools and correct size pucks.
Schneller Dummkopf! Aus meinen Weg!

Current Vw(s)
'13 Jetta TDI (Lucifer)

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Re: RyanB's Caddy
Reply #32
Went out this morning... Started her up expecting to hear he clicking. I did not. Gave it about a minute to run then blipped the throttle to get the alt light to go out. Clicking noise started. Turned the truck off. Waited a few seconds and started her back up. No clicking. No smoke. I was hesitant to blip the throttle again. I am guessing somewhere between 3k - 3.5k rpm is where the clicking started.

Stuck lifter? It's hard to imagine a stuck follower or lifter, because if it sticks then the piston will make short work of it. But how to explain the problem goes away? This is so weird.

Drove it to Mcminnville without issue.  Guy on the other forum suggest marvel mystery oil to help clean it.  I've always thought that stuff was snake oil. Dunno, but I am willing to give it a try.
RyanB
 
66 Baja

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Re: RyanB's Caddy
Reply #33
I ran the marvel mystery oil through my car to clean it up some.
I like the smell.
I have no idea if it worked as I sold the engine to Nacho.
It runs like a champ.
The worst performance mod is whatever you're limited to because you convinced yourself (or others) that anything bigger or faster was too extreme for a street car.

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Re: RyanB's Caddy
Reply #34
No-occurrence of the issue so far, but I don't rev it still. I just take my time getting to where I go and laugh at gas stations along the way ....


A pic today in the snow!

RyanB
 
66 Baja

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Re: RyanB's Caddy
Reply #35
Ryan that really is a good lookin' truck. I hope the engine issue is easy.
Steve

69 Bug - daily driver
75 Riviera - for sale

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Re: RyanB's Caddy
Reply #36
OK. So this past weekend I tackled the idea of getting the "gasser" tach working. I researched a number of things, and honestly I thought this was the easiest. The options were, modify the circuit board electronics inside the tach then find a "W" alternator that has the Diesel tach output. I didn't like this idea. I think I could modify the board but heck why open the thing up if you don't need to.

The second option was to purchase a special sensor and box from a company. You put it into the hold that you look for your timing mark. you have to count the teeth of the flywheel and configure it all.  While elegant, it was expensive.  My aircooled El-Cheapo days were fighting this option.

Lastly, and the more interesting option was one I saw over on VWDIESEL forums. Essentially you get an inexpensive hall effect sensor. The gasser tach is looking for two pulses per revolution. Thus, you weld two bolts or other metal ferrous item to your pulley and then setup the sensor near enough to trigger. You ground one pin, and the other goes to the Tach.

It took some time. The truck I had, had a wire in the harness for the tach, I traced it down to a plug and it terminated there. I was half hoping it was going to go all the way into the engine bay and end up near the alternator.  Since it stopped there, I drilled a hole in my firewall. I really REALLY hate drilling holes in my cars. But, I needed not only to run the wire for the tach but I also needed to run wires for the oil pressure and oil temp gauges that came from the Cabriolet. So, I drilled the hole and put a nice tight fitting grommet in it and ran the wires through I needed.

My initial test showed me exactly what I wanted to see. My cluster was sitting outside the dash so I didnt have my extra ground/power leads hooked up. I ran a temp wire out the door to the sensor. Tach was working, though it would blip downwards at times. I'm not entirely sure why. AFAIK, I got the two bolts perfectly straight directly across from each other. I'll look into this issue later.

I buttoned everything back up and started the truck up. The tach twiched a few times and went to zero.  Huh... Well that bites. I spent the better part of a day doing all this and now not working. Fast forward to this morning. I start the truck and again the tach twiched a few times then goes to zero. On my way to work I am thinking what changes i may have made and realized when the cluster was out and I tested it I didn't have my extra power/ground connected. I reached down and gently pulled out the power connection from the fuse block. Boom, the tach starts working. But the gauges are not happy. They initially drop to near zero and then come back up to 1/4" less than they were before. So less temp and less gas.  Odd!

Anyone know if the Tach should be getting a full 12v, or is it supposed to get the stabilized 10v? I am 99% sure I traced and ohmed out the 12v power from the main connector went to it but hey, I've made mistakes before!

Anyhow, here are a couple pics.

This is the sensor I picked up from ebay. I think it was $25.



My pulley before I modified it.


After welding in the bolts.


Here you can see the setup. A very simple L bracket that is stiff enough to keep the sensor from bouncing, but just pliable enough that I can bend it to keep the sensor close enough.
RyanB
 
66 Baja

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Re: RyanB's Caddy
Reply #37
Well, multiple overheats lately.  Looks to be blown head gasket.  What fun for me huh?

Need to get the head off quickly to determine the size (number of notches, can be 1-3) so I can get that ordered as well as head bolts.  Oh joy.
RyanB
 
66 Baja

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Re: RyanB's Caddy
Reply #38
I really like your truck and all the work you have done to it. Good luck with the head gasket issue. I have a ton of spare mkI & mkII parts. So if you have something specific you are looking for let me know, weather it be interior or exterior parts. I dont have alot of Diesel parts but you never know what I may dig up.
R135
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Re: RyanB's Caddy
Reply #39
Thanks PDXGOLF.  I'll certainly keep that is mind.

I pulled the head off and one of the head bolts was snapped before I even started turning the wrench.  Crazy. I'd say I have some serious issues with the head as well.  A large crack between all 4 sets of valves and the pic below shows a large crack going to the ignition chamber.  uhg.

I have another motor, but I dont know it's compression.  I heard these 1.6's fit into Vanagons at some point? I wonder if it will bolt to my 009 just for testing.

RyanB
 
66 Baja

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Re: RyanB's Caddy
Reply #40
wow...thats some serious carnage right there!
1971 Super Beetle

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Re: RyanB's Caddy
Reply #41
Those are wicked cracks...
The worst performance mod is whatever you're limited to because you convinced yourself (or others) that anything bigger or faster was too extreme for a street car.

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Re: RyanB's Caddy
Reply #42
Ouch that looks ugly  :cry:
R135
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Re: RyanB's Caddy
Reply #43
OK. So I sourced the misc gaskets and whatnot to put this thing back together. I actually have 3 other parts motors I got with another Caddy I picked up late last year. The guy had already pulled the 1.6 heads apart. But there was a 1.5 head that seemed in good shape. I cleaned it up, checked it out as best as I could. No cracks, the valve seats look good. The only difference I saw was a smaller return galley? I wasn't sure that would make a big difference. I said what the hell and I spent the day putting it on the car.

I have it running, but it's still overheating.

OK. So lets take a step back. Cooling system parts:

Water Pump: I followed the Bently on this. Says to stick a screwdriver into the pump blades and attempt to turn the pump. Unable to do so. There is no play back and forth. I visually inspected the blades, they are all there and no cracks. Pump turns with minimal effort. As far as I can tell, there is no problems with the pump.

Radiator: Before doing the head, I removed the thermostat and put the housing back together. I then Put the garden hose into the top of the radiator. I pinched off the line going from the pump to the outlet on the head. I get flowing water out of the outlet from the head. This should tell me the Radiator is not plugged?

Thermostat: I verified both the new one and the old one work by putting them in a pan of water on the stove and boiling it. They both open without issues.

Following Brian's trick with the small hole drilled into the thermostat I have made sure the cooling system is full. Since the new/used head is on I no longer get water pushed out of the reservoir when I first start it like I did before.

The top hose takes a while to get hot. But the other side of the radiator never gets hot. Still not flowing. I do get hot air still from the heater... So the pump has to be doing something. I am thinking of trying to figure out how to simply run a hose from the outlet from the head down to the bottom input to the pump and see if the hose gets hot. I suppose if it does quickly then that tells me a bad or plugged radiator even though it flows water ok with the hose in it?

Other suggestions? oh, and any red flags running the 1.5 head on it? This thing is my daily driver, or supposed to be. I don't need tons of power. Just good has mileage. Oh, and no overheating...
RyanB
 
66 Baja

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Re: RyanB's Caddy
Reply #44
I have heard that some sea rums require "burping" to get all the air out. I don't know if that is your issue but if the top hose isn't getting hot I just seems like there isn't any water in it. I am no expert with that water stuff but that's my best guess.
Mark

1967 Convertible
1967 Ragtop (really)-SOLD IT!
1967 Standard Bus
1974 Thing
1977 Rabbit