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Topic: RyanB's Buggy (Read 12402 times) previous topic - next topic

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Re: RyanB's Buggy
Reply #15
Thanks guys.  If you look at the 5th picture up from this post, you can see the large metal patch I did over the top of the tunnel as well. Also, look at the last pic in this post and you can see it as well.

Here is Sundays welding. I spent all day on this one area. after 2 days of bent over welding though my back was killing me and I didn't work into the evening like I did on Saturday. I think I came in around 3pm.  Basically, there was random metal bits welded into the pan on the 1st image with some sheet metal welded across. It really looked like hell from underneath and I didnt like how it was done.  I had a donor pan sitting in my backyard that had alot of cancer but this particular part  was in great shape. So I cut it out of the old pan and put it into mine.


Today, this has to come out and be replaced. I could leave it in and clean it up but I want a nice pan.



Beginning to fit the replacement seat slide area from a donor pan. LOVE German metal.



Pie cut is done and welded in. There was some rust cancer in the rear area I had to take care of as well. About 95% done with this area.
RyanB
 
66 Baja

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Re: RyanB's Buggy
Reply #16
Another productive weekend working out in the garage. Getting close to having this pan done! I think that next weekend I'll be hitting it with the wire wheel, then the pressure washer and it will be time to coat it with the truckbed liner.



As with the drivers side, the person who did the pan replacement did not finish the welding. Looks like hell.



Welding complete


Time to tackle the corners near the tunnel.


A really odd area to make look good. Did what I could.


Need some additional welding and cleanup near the tunnel.


Finished cleanup and welding near the tunnel, drivers side.


Time to do some welding and cleanup on the underneath.


This took all day. Welding the seam near the bottom of the tunnel for each replacement pan as it wasnt done before. Went over the welds that put the pan back together to make sure everything is strong. Did some grinding to knock off the high spots.


Pan is about 90% cleaned up. All the tar crap is removed. Need to hit it with a wire wheel and then I'll go after it with a pressure washer. Then it will ne time for the truck bed coating.


A test fit for the bus reduction transmission.

RyanB
 
66 Baja

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Re: RyanB's Buggy
Reply #17
Looking good Ryan. For claiming to be a novice welder it looks like you are getting it down really well :2up:
Schneller Dummkopf! Aus meinen Weg!

Current Vw(s)
'13 Jetta TDI (Lucifer)

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Re: RyanB's Buggy
Reply #18
Novice, that ain't true!

Nice work!  You should POR15 it
"Our Faster is Faster than their Faster" as seen on a local motorcycle company truck...

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Re: RyanB's Buggy
Reply #19

Novice, that ain't true!

Nice work!  You should POR15 it


An alternative to POR 15 is Hammerite http://www.ehow.com/about_5073617_hammerite-paint.html. I have been using it on floor pans, my Bus floor, suspension parts, etc. for many years. It has a very-hard surface. I use the spray-can form to spray parts that are seen and it looks as good as powder coating, and is about as hard (but much cheaper). A big benefit over POR 15 is that Hammerite is available in many colors; particularly handy is black.

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Re: RyanB's Buggy
Reply #20
So, I had a looooong weekend and was time to get more done.  The goal was to get the hubs off the transaxle and to coat the pan in Bedliner. I did get both done thankfully.  However I think I may have broke my foot. I had the wheel hubs up on a block. While I was working on them my foot ended up underneath the axle tube. Yea well, you can guess what happened.  The damn Hub/Drum rolled off the block. With the hub weight, along with the redux box...  My foot is a nice black and blue now. Hard to put my boots/shoes on.
Uhg.

I had to create 2 of my own tools. As with everything it's a trial and error process. It was mostly a succsess. The Passenger side castle nut just would NOT budge. Even with the tool I made. I broke 2 11mm sockets on the torque drive. Then got a heavy duty impact gun socket. That managed to finally destroy the original 36mm castle nut I welded to the 46mm Socket.  I then cut off the destroyed on and tried a brand new 36mm castle nut welded to the 46mm socket. That was destroyed as well. A bit disapointing. It worked fine on the drivers side.  I ended up drilling apart the castle nut on the passenger side to remove it. So, will need to find a new one.

The drum/hub puller I made was a resounding succsess on both side. Though again the passenger side proved to be more difficult. It was actually bending parts of the angle iron, so I had to make another brace piece to put in. Was fine after that.

I also made a small error... Should never just assume. Looking at the nosecone of the RGB TRansaxle and the nosecone of the standard transaxle they looked the same to me. Well, apparently they are not. Putting the mount on the RGB transaxle and trying to put it on the pan  it doesnt fit. I'll have to pust out the angle grinder and whack off the  mounting area on the torsion housing and move it up. Probably take an hour or so but was unexpected.

here are the pics...


Well, sometimes with oddball stuff you have to make your own tools. The large Castle nut here is 46MM. My Torque tool fits 36mm. Here is a standoff to hold the Torque teeth.


Torque Teeth in place.


46mm socket, with 36mm Castle nut welded to it.


Torque Gear and arm attached.



Houston, we have a problem. THe metal was soft enough it started to strip. I had to pull it back off and weld more strength into it. It finally worked.


With the Castle nut off, the hub needs to be removed. This poor thing sat outside for YEARS. No way was it coming off easilly. 3 standoff's are drilled for lugs and put on.


2 Heft Angle Iron's connect everything, welded into place.


An extra puller I've had laying around for years is hooked up to my contraption. Worked like a charm


Drivers side drum pulled off. cute huh?


36mm Castle nut taking a beating on the passenger side.


Passenger side drum removed.


Initial painting of the transaxle after the power wash.


The bottom of the pan after coating with the bedliner.


Getting ready to put bedliner on the top.


Bedliner is on!
RyanB
 
66 Baja

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Re: RyanB's Buggy
Reply #21
Got back out to the garage last night and re-welded the front transaxle mount.  It is now bolted in!  Just need to get the L Brackets to connect the swingaxle spring plates to the rudux boxes from Dan @ Hecker Machine.


RyanB
 
66 Baja

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Re: RyanB's Buggy
Reply #22
With the pan essentially done, it was time to bring the body back inside to figure out how to begin to get it ready to bolt down to the pan. I have much work ahead of me. Pretty sure that I am going to have to cut out put of the back package tray area over the transmission. It is riding on top of it and the body is not 100% on the pan yet. In the 4th picture below, it's hard to tell but that space between the pan and the body is about 1/2", once I remove some of the package tray area this may finally sit down onto the pan better.

I am in desperate need of at least one swingaxle spring plate, if anyone has one laying around...


A mock up to get a feel for what it will begin to look like.


And here begins my 1st big problem. The body is riding on the top of the transaxle and it not completely sitting on the pan. I fear I am going to have to cut this area out and glass it back in higher.


THe body is mostly forced down onto the pan. The rear corners are not looking so great and the previous picture shows why it may not be sitting down 100%


After jacking up the pan you can see it's still not flush with the body. I am not 100% sure what I am going to do about this. It appears the other side is much closer.
RyanB
 
66 Baja

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Re: RyanB's Buggy
Reply #23
A super long "weekend" for me. I had Mon-Wed off. I didn't quite get done what I wanted to.  Basically I went looking for an old pedal cluster I had that had a good spring on it. The current pedal cluster the spring is a bit iffy. Well, after digging into my pile O parts and having stuff fall on me I got frustrated and began cleaning and organizing. Yea well 3 days later things are much more organized.

So, what did I get done on the buggy? A few things.  I had to shorten the shift rod. I took my time making marks and making sure everything was lined up and straight. Made my cuts (15 1/2" is what I took out of the pan) and welded it all back together.  This is when I found my 1st hurdle. I don't really remember having difficulty in putting in the shift rod in my old buggy. But due to it being shortened, it was difficult to get it to go through the front mounting hole underneath the shifter. It was just too short. I ended up snaking baling wire from the back, through the hole and hooking the shift rod. After much difficulty I pulled it through.

Enter problem number 2. When I attempted to lift the shift rod up into place to attach the coupler to the transmission it wouldn't come up for enough. I can no longer see into the area in question so I am assuming that the E-brake tubes are in the way. with everything welded into place I cant really get back into that area, so what to do? Not many options so I applied some muscle. I simply grabbed the bar and bent it up into place. I am sure there is an ugly kink the rod, and I am sure it will never be able to be removed now...

Enter problem number 3. I went to attach the coupler and low and behold, there is no indent in the nosecone shift part. Well, this transmission came out of a bus, so naturally it is below and not above. I went and looked at the original transmission and 'tried' to accurately reproduce the same location of the hole. Well, that did not go well. I ended up having to weld to fill that hole. Grind it down and then this time I put the transmission into 3rd gear, put the shifter into 3rd after sliding on the coupler and drilled through it into the bar. It now shifts correctly...

So, now with the pedal cluster in place and the shifter in place it was time to tackle the spring plates. Not much to report there. Went on without too much difficulty. Though I am certain I have much more preload on the passenger side than I do on the drivers side. I will probably have to redo the drivers side but I'll wait to see how it sits.

The last thing I did was to mount the motor. I mistook a couple of Type4 clutches that are much larger then my type1. So, just for kicks I mounted the motor to fire it up. I need to find a used clutch pressure plate to get me by for now. I have a clutch disk.

Things to do...
1) Find a clutch pressure plate.
2) Get swingarm boots
3) Need a new wingnut for the clutch cable
4) Get L Brackets from Dan @ Hecker Machine

MUCH more of course, this is just the imminent stuff.


And the obligatory pic. This is after running the motor briefly.
RyanB
 
66 Baja

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Re: RyanB's Buggy
Reply #24
Shaping up to be a potentially busy weekend.  Picking up the L Bracket adapters from Dan @ Hecker Machine. Getting a used clutch from my friend Peter, and picking up a few small items to finish up mounting the motor and transmission.

I've decided to go with the lift on the body. I'll be doing it using wood glassed into the bottom of the body. Many area's of the bottom of the body are in very bad shape. I think this will help both stifen up the body while allowing me to fit it to the wood and glass it in.  Much better I think than cutting into the body to make more room in other area's and still have to address the poor area's.  The suggestion came from 2 different forums and really made me sit and think about it.

I'm not 100% on this as of yet. I'll buy some 2x4 and mock it up. I may not want it that high. I only need clearance for the transaxle. The tires wont be hitting the body AFAIK.
RyanB
 
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Re: RyanB's Buggy
Reply #25
Some years ago my kid and I put a Bus trans & reduction boxes in his Baja.  We set it up by welding/fabing the stock swing axle spring plates to the Bus reduction box end.  We found that there was a substantial recoil with this simple design.  By this I mean that upon acceleration followed by sudden deceleration created a whip-lash effect from the rear suspension.  After doing some research (not much on the web back then) we found that the solution was an additional control arm installed below and parralell to the spring plate.  This created a "4-link" style suspension and supposidly controled the recoil.  We never went this far and just put the Bug transaxle back in.  Is your design going to avoid this issue?

Also, I stumbled upon this the other day:

http://www.kustom1warehouse.net/Raised_Balljoint_spindles_for_VW_Bug_p/raisedspindles.htm

Raised spindles!  Finally!
Mark

1967 Convertible
1967 Ragtop (really)-SOLD IT!
1967 Standard Bus
1974 Thing
1977 Rabbit

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Re: RyanB's Buggy
Reply #26
this is the place that we used to get parts for our baja's



www.blindchickenracing.com
1961 bug
1963 15 window bus
1965 bug
1966 bug
1967 21 window bus
1969 Manx clone
1978 bug

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Re: RyanB's Buggy
Reply #27
Mark, I dont know for sure yet. The guy that I borrowed the idea from indicated he did not have a problem. but only time will tell once I get this back on the road. If it does, I'll have to figure out what to do about it then.


Gmiee5, I've done some business with Mark Johnson many times. He can be difficult to get ahold of at times. I've been camping with them before as well. Fun guy.
RyanB
 
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Re: RyanB's Buggy
Reply #28
Another productive weekend for me. And exciting! I got to pick up the custom L brackets so that I can hook up the reduction gear boxes to the spring plates.

It is almost a roller now! I need to get the drums turned, and complete the rear brakes.

A huge thank you to Dan @ Hecker Machine for making up my custom brackets. If you need adapter plates or other custom work, he's awesome! You wont be disapointed with any of his work!

I've heard the suggestions about using hard wood. I've stuck with the standard fir that you get with 2x4. I am keeping costs down. Also keep in mind that this is already MUCH stronger than if the 2x4's were not there. 2x4's on edge seem to work really well. I stood on the edge after putting this in and there was no flex in it. The body will eventually get glassed directly to the wood.  I still need to figure out the captians hat area and the rear curve. After a couple tries with the captains hat I called it a day.

Here is the initial fitting of the L Bracket I had made.



Nothing Scientific here, I had to eyeball this. I knew of no other way. Basically this is the droop I built in. I think that when it is sitting on the wheels it should be level.


The L Bracket is in place and mostly bolted in. Suspension is almost complete!


Another angle of the L bracket setup.


Another angle of the L bracket setup.


Another angle of the L bracket setup.


Rear suspension is complete. Almost a roller!


Beginning of the body lift


Drivers side mostly complete



Drivers and passenger sides are done.


Body now sitting on the lift.


RyanB
 
66 Baja

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Re: RyanB's Buggy
Reply #29
Looking pretty dang good Ryan... I am jelous of the fact that you actually have a project IN your garage...
"Our Faster is Faster than their Faster" as seen on a local motorcycle company truck...