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Topic: Revs 71 (Read 82238 times) previous topic - next topic

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Re: Revs 71
Reply #285
Agree, and share it as well. 
-Raleigh-

`58 Rag  
`56 Euro Oval
`67 sunroof (gone)

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Re: Revs 71
Reply #286
Im looking for an opinion...I got some new hubcaps...but I like my beauty rings too...what do you think.

1971 Super Beetle

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Re: Revs 71
Reply #287
I had the drivers front wheel off today trying on some new westers "shoes" I think I am going to avoid the westerns because they offset is too small for the amount of  tuck I want...

But i did notice an awful wobble in the tire...turns out my little slide off the road a month or so ago compressed the bearing in that hub.   I put in a new one...wobble gone.


and a random working photo...

1971 Super Beetle

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Re: Revs 71
Reply #288

Im looking for an opinion...I got some new hubcaps...but I like my beauty rings too...what do you think.


Why not do both?  Unless rings won't work for some reason with new caps. 
-Raleigh-

`58 Rag  
`56 Euro Oval
`67 sunroof (gone)

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Re: Revs 71
Reply #289
Paint the wheels green to match the car with just the smooth hubs and slap some white walls on it  :2up: Not everyone is a fan of white walls. You might even like just painting the wheels white.



Or color matching center and white lips



Looks like the wheels match the car color with your beauty rings on and a narrow white wall

  • Last Edit: February 18, 2013, 08:38:13 AM by jbjetta
Schneller Dummkopf! Aus meinen Weg!

Current Vw(s)
'13 Jetta TDI (Lucifer)

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Re: Revs 71
Reply #290

Im looking for an opinion...I got some new hubcaps...but I like my beauty rings too...what do you think.




I too have a set of stock wheels that are black with only the chrome hubcap.
They seem to drain the life from the car.
I believe you should paint them one of the body colors and run the hubcap that way.

Or just run the full blown wheel covers.


One thing is for sure....
You need to drop that front end for sure!   :2down:
The worst performance mod is whatever you're limited to because you convinced yourself (or others) that anything bigger or faster was too extreme for a street car.

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Re: Revs 71
Reply #291
 :stupid:

The beauty rings look better.  Black is kinda drab for your car.  Painting the wheels would look good too.
Mark

1967 Convertible
1967 Ragtop (really)-SOLD IT!
1967 Standard Bus
1974 Thing
1977 Rabbit

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Re: Revs 71
Reply #292


the black wheels and caps would look much better if it was DROPPED,  but i have to agree with these last two

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Re: Revs 71
Reply #293


the black wheels and caps would look much better if it was DROPPED,  but i have to agree with these last two


Lowering kit purchased.

Anyone know How Lo I can get before I need to worry about the sway bar?  Ultimately I want to go four inches - but cant mess with the sway bar right now.
1971 Super Beetle

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Re: Revs 71
Reply #294
What equals "lowering kit"?  4" is a lot for the run-of-mill drop struts. 
Mark

1967 Convertible
1967 Ragtop (really)-SOLD IT!
1967 Standard Bus
1974 Thing
1977 Rabbit

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Re: Revs 71
Reply #295
run of the mill...i.e. total kit from top line which I think also has camber adjusters, etc . . .or the Mamotorworks kit, or the cip1 kit for 71 supers.

I am getting towers and inserts and want to stick with what I have other than that for now and am curious how low I can get with that....before I need to start doing other modification like flip-its for the sway bar, etc . . .
1971 Super Beetle

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Re: Revs 71
Reply #296
Actually, all that is a bit of a foreign language to me.  However, I do like running bigger sway bars on lowered cars.  Lower cars are more likely to rub a fender or two while cornering and a bigger sway bar will minimize the body roll.
Mark

1967 Convertible
1967 Ragtop (really)-SOLD IT!
1967 Standard Bus
1974 Thing
1977 Rabbit

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Re: Revs 71
Reply #297
No worries I speak this foriegn dialect...

I did all my lowering and sway bar at the same time.
I have read that you can go a couple of inches before you have to flip the sway bar over.
When I got my 7/8" sway bar its instructions had a position for stock and one for lowered.
I have it in the lowered position.

When we first lowered my car in the front, with the EMPI strut bodies that I have we tried the third notch up from the bottom, a hefty bit of lowering for the first go at it.

Before lowering my car had a good 3-4 inches from the tire to the fender.


After it was perched right over the top of the tread, with out my ass in the car.
The wheels in the picture hit the brake calipers and were wearing 195/60/15 tires.

Markie wore gloves so he didn't catch super fever while working on my car for me.
I was a total noob to these cars and mine was supposed to restart the shop days portion of the club....


This ended up being tooooooo low for me.

I run 185/60/15's on the front and they rubbed any chance they moved from the center postition with just me in the car.
Not willing to move to a smaller tire I ended up folding the fender lip completley from the front of the fender to the back.
This helped but not enough.
I was still low enough that I smashed the tow hook into the speed humps near my house enough to break it off.
Not to mention I kept hitting the control arm mount on the ground, not cool. :2down:

While I had the time too a couple years ago, I pulled the front suspension out of the car and proceeded to raise it one notch on the strut bodies.
That is where my car is now.

I believe that they are on the fourth notch from the bottom.
With my summer tires I rarely have rubbing issues,in the front.
It is high enough that I can easily swap to my stock size winter knobbies and only have rubbing issues when I am turning sharp.
This is my preffered ride height.  :driving:

I would buy the set from Total Line as they have done this many times over and are more than just a parts dealer.
I pieced mine togther and it has worked just fine for me so far.
My car already had urethane bushings in the front, but I replaced them anyway as I had the new parts in hand.
I have the EMPI strut bodies, beware as they do not have the brake line holder on them.
I cut them off of my stock bodies and Markie welded them on with his rusty arc welder skills at Donald's house.
For my inserts I have the again EMPI oil filled lowered strut inserts.
The sway bar is the 7/8" hollow unit.
I bought all this stuff before I knew of the soiled name they had for products, but they have worked just fine for 4-5 years of daily hard abuse.
I did get the offset urethane sway bar bushings to bring the control arms back closer to square with the centerline of the car.
I have yet to install the tie rod flip kit.
It is supposed to help with bump steer by relocating the tie rods from the top to the bottom of the attaching point, making the angle close to level again after you altered the ride height.

But the best addition I made to the front end was the Strut Tower Brace.
That made the biggest improvement for me, even after all the other stuff was added.
I noticed the difference on the first drive and it was night and day.


If you have any other questions let me know and I will try to help.
I have been known to help other club members wrench on their supers from time to time.....
:cheers2:
  • Last Edit: February 21, 2013, 08:15:32 AM by CatBox
The worst performance mod is whatever you're limited to because you convinced yourself (or others) that anything bigger or faster was too extreme for a street car.

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Re: Revs 71
Reply #298
Thanks Peter.   :cheers2:


Went over to Kev's last night and lowered the front in about 3 inches (4th notch up). 
What a PITA though.  The old strut towers were just about fused into the socket on the wheel. 
I also replaced my ball joints.  That was the easiest part. 

5 hours, one new brake line, a lot of pounding and frustration and two tool runs later...here we are

1971 Super Beetle

  • Kev
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  • Hebmuller
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Re: Revs 71
Reply #299
 and Mark Hunwe will be replacing your spring compressor as one of em failed...
"Our Faster is Faster than their Faster" as seen on a local motorcycle company truck...