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Topics - Matty
Hey all, have an issue with my stock 1600 DP I could use some advice with.
It was running absolutely fine one day and the very next day it started running extremely rough, like it was not getting fuel. I can start it with some finesse but it will not stay running but for about 30 seconds or so.
I've checked the fuel pump and its pumping fuel fine. I've checked the idler jet on the carb(SOLEX) and it is not clogged. I replaced all 4 spark plugs. I checked gap on all valves. I checked voltage at the coil. Can't check timing because can't get it to run long enough.
009 dizzy with Pertronix. My guess is a bad Pertronix or internal carb issues? Any thoughts would be appreciated so I don't just start taking everything apart.
Looking for a usable adjustable pushrod that connects the brake pedal to master cylinder, early 60's Type 1 style.
A PO of my car welded mine so it is no longer adjustable, yep.
So today, while cruising down Hwy 217 south on my way to work, right before the I-5 interchange, the little lock plate/screw/etc. thingy that connects the master cylinder plunger to the brake pedal decided to completely disintegrate! Needless to say, my e-brake skills saved the day and I nursed her to work. Having the wife swing by at lunch to run me to DIP to get some repair bits and pieces... and maybe a fresh set of underwear!
Well after taking a few years off from the scene to play Jeeps, I have returned to the dark side! Sold my 1997 TJ that I have spent the last few years wrenching on a picked up a very solid '65 Type 1, where the previous owner had much work done at House of Ghia in Salem. Have a few minor issues to resolve but will be driving this beast daily from here on.
Hey all, long time no talk.
Found a guy looking to trade a 71 Bus for a Subaru or 4x4 so............I offered up the Jeep. Now with that said, I LOVE my Jeep, but they require time and money I don't have. ACVW's have always been user friendly and I know my family would enjoy the Bus more.
We shall see how this one plays out...
Before you begin to adjust the carburetor, the valves, points, and timing should be set. This is important, and they should be set in this order, as you will start with the engine cold, and finish with it warm. It's important to set the valves, points, timing and to check the choke before setting the carburetor, as they all work together for a smooth running engine. Details regarding these settings are given in the links below.
The following descriptions apply to all types of carburetors-
There is a lever on the left side with a cable connected to the bottom of it. This is the throttle lever; the cable is the accelerator cable.
Note: Before adjusting the carburetor, it is essential that the accelerator cable be properly adjusted. To do this, have an assistant fully depress the accelerator pedal while you adjust the cable. Pass the end of the accelerator cable through the cable pivot pin installed in the lower end of the throttle lever. The books say that with the pedal fully depressed and the cable extended forward, the throttle lever should be wide open and attached to the cable such that there is about 1mm of clearance between the throttle lever and the carburetor.
You may find it easiest to simply note where the clamp goes on the cable end in this position (wide open), then let up on the pedal and make the connection with the system relaxed. Or, if working by yourself, you may find that you can come very close by adjusting the cable as follows: With the idle screw against the very bottom of the stepped cam, pull the cable back finger-tight and snug down the screw to secure the cable. It takes three hands -- use channel lock pliers and hold the end of the cable to the throttle lever while I tighten the screw with the other hand.
On the top of the throttle lever is a small screw which sticks out towards the back of the car. This is the "idle adjustment screw" on the 28 and 30 series carburetors, and called the "fast idle adjuster" on the 30PICT/3, 34PICT/3, 31PICT and Brosol H30/31.
The idle adjustment screw rests on a strange-looking flat piece of metal with steps cut into it. This is the fast idle cam, and works with the choke to give a reliable idle on a cold engine.
The engine must be warm to set the carburetor so that the choke is off (i.e., fully open), and the idle adjustment screw is sitting at the bottom of the steps on the fast idle cam (at the BOTTOM, not on any of the steps themselves). Directly beneath the fast idle cam on the left side of the carburetor you will see (on the older models) a single screw with a spring wrapped around it. This is the volume control screw, and this type of carburetor can be called a "one adjusting screw" type of carburetor. The later model carburetor also have a larger bypass screw that is used for setting the idle speed - the fast idle adjustment screw and stepped cam are NOT used to adjust the idle speed on these "two adjusting screw" carburetor.
On the side of the carburetor body is a barrel-shaped object, a little larger a pen-light battery, with a black wire connected to the outer end. This is the idle fuel cutoff valve (solenoid). On older model carburetors it's on the right side, and on later models it's on the left, close to the throttle arm. This valve shuts off the flow of fuel when you turn off the engine, to prevent "running on." Be sure the wire is connected and that it runs to the (+) terminal on the coil. (Also attached to this terminal is the black wire that provides power to the automatic choke.) Make sure that the idle cutoff valve is screwed into the carburetor snuggly, and not rattling loose. Don't overtighten it though, it's got a fine brass thread and screws into aluminum -- both relatively soft metals.
Note: You can test the operation of the idle cutoff valve solenoid very easily. Turn on the ignition (don't start the car), and pull off the wire on the solenoid. Touch the wire back onto the connector, and you should hear a clicking sound as the valve inside moves. If you do not hear a clicking sound, check to make sure there is power (12 volts) to the wire (small trouble light, voltmeter, etc.). Replace the solenoid if necessary. If it's not working, you won't get a proper idle, and you'll get rough running at traffic speeds, too.
As stated previously, before attempting to adjust the carburetor make sure your engine is warm and the choke butterfly standing upright. Make sure the air cleaner is seated firmly on the top of the carburetor before beginning the adjustment -- the engine expects it to be there.
The 28PCI, 28 PICT, 28PICT/1, 30PICT/1, and 30PICT/2 all have one adjusting screw in the left side of the carburetor (the Volume screw) and an idle speed screw on the throttle arm. They can all be tuned using this procedure for the Adjustment of "Single-Screw" carburetors.
The 30PICT/3, 31PICT, H30/31 and 34PICT/3 all have two adjusting screws in the left side (the smaller Volume and larger Bypass screws) and a fast-idle screw on the throttle arm. They can be set using this procedure for the Adjustment of "Two-Screw" carburetors.
Looking to borrow a table saw for a weekend project. Just need for 1-2 days. Anyone able help a guy out?
David (VWagonfreak) has his engine back together and ready to install. Anyone wanting to learn how to put an engine in Type 1 is more than welcome to help out. I pulled it out and am committed to helping him put it back in. Just thought I would offer others the chance for some wrenching/learning time if wanted. It will be on a Saturday or Sunday, date TBD later.
Anyone have an "extra" copy of Win 7 w/product key laying around? Much appreciated...
Dell Optiplex GX240 upgraded to an Intel Pentium 4 2.0GHz 400MHz 512KB Socket 478 CPU(maximum size for the motherboard)
- 1 GB SDRAM(maxed out)
- 140 GB Western Digital operating system HD(clean install of Windows XP Pro)and a secondary 50 GB backup HD(internal)
- DVD/CD-RW drive(reads DVDs and burns CDs)
- JATON 3DForceFX-5200 128MB 64-bit DDR AGP 4X/8X Video Card
- SABRENT SBT-SP6C 5.1 Channel PCI sound/game port card
- 4 USB 1.0 ports, 10/100 LAN
- Includes Dell systems driver CD, Windows XP Pro CD, and the video and game card driver CDs
- Has AVG antivirus(free edition) installed as well as Roxio burning software and Cyberlink Power DVD
follow link for pics
Anyone know where to get an ACVW appraised locally? Have a gal at work looking to get a loan on a restored 67 Bug but needs an appraisal to get a loan.
Any tips are appreciated.
What we have here is a Jeff Davis Designs original.
Built to fit in the rear cargo area of an air-cooled VW Bug.
Cut to hold 2 - 6"x9" speakers and 1-10" sub(you may be able to trim to sub hole to hold a 12").
I was able to mount my amp underneath the box.
Built from 3/4" MDF. Mostly carpeted. I had to trim some of the carpet off the sides to fit in my Bug as the car had a fresh carpet kit and was being stubborn. Where I removed the carpet, I painted black.
Measures 37 1/2" W, 13 1/4" deep, 9 3/4" H in front, 14" H in rear.
If you want, I will throw in the 8 gauge fuse holder and power wire(for an amp) I used in my Bug; already cut to length
It's officially for sale.
Has a 1600 DP w/a H30/31 carb that runs good. IRS transaxle. Newer spark plugs, cap & rotor. New fuel pump and rod. New intake boots. New rear main(flywheel) seal. Bosch blue coil. SVDA dizzy w/ Pertronix installed. Roof rack. Hurst shifter. New drivers floor pan, new carpet, seats have been recovered, new door panels. New front windshield, new rubber seals all the way around. Replaced the rear quarter windows with pop-outs so the seals are not new on those, but will include the stock windows w/the new seals. New ball joints, tie rods and steering dampener with alignment. New master cylinder, new front brake lines, shoes, cylinders and drums w/ system bled. Also have a brand new set of stainless hoses for front and rear. New glove box with lid lock. All wiring in working order. New speed-o cable, new muffler, new fuel tank sender. The body has some minor rust issues and the paint is poor. Front end lowered with a 3" narrowed adjustable B/J beam on 2 1/2" drop spindles. Rear lowered 2 inner splines. EMPI Sprinstar wheels. Tires are 145/65/15 up front and 205/60/15 in rear and still have excellent tread. Brand new 75 amp alternator conversion. Grant GT steering wheel. I removed the dash pad but never finished the dash. Heat works very good. Has a Kenwood CD player w/some cheap speakers hooked up for sound, already wired for an amp(I had a fairly large system that I am keeping).
I have a large tote of misc. parts that go with the car; extra glass, stock taillights, rear axles, etc.
Clean OR title in my name and tags are good till 02/2012.